The Lodhi Garden And Khan Market - An Escape From Delhi’s Busy Streets
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Delhi is a chaotic capital, its old town jam packed with people, produce, rickshaws and stalls not to mention the occasional wandering bovine. Delhi can really grind you down, its constant thrum of activity, noise, smell and heat can be overwhelming. Delhi however has a softer side, it is a surprisingly green city once you get out of the old town, full of beautiful manicured parks and leafy suburbs. If you are looking for a more calm day out in Delhi then we would recommend the Lodhi Garden and nearby Khan Market.
What is the Lodhi Garden?
The Lodhi Garden is a beautiful landscaped park full of ancient tombs and ruins. It has exercise machines, running tracks, walking paths, gardens and lawns. It is a true oasis of greenery and calm, a tranquil place to relax and unwind in the Indian capital.
History of the Lodhi Garden
Lodhi Garden is a comparatively recent (at least in terms of India’s vast history) addition to Delhi. The area, ruins and tombs were once dotted around the village Khairpur on the periphery of New Delhi. The area was cleared and the people moved in the 1930’s and the park was built connecting the ruins together and planting native trees and flowers. This being the era of British rule, the park was originally named Lady Willingdon Park after the then Viceroy’s wife. As India threw off the shackles of Empire and gained Independence the parks name was changed to the Lodhi Garden
The name Lodhi comes from one of the dynasties whose tombs are found in the gardens, there are others from the Mughal and Sayyid rulers. The tombs of the garden are amazing, huge structures fantastically preserved and open to the public.
It is one of the things that never gets old or ceases to surprise in Delhi, you can just be walking through a public park, or backstreet and be confronted by a beautiful ancient monument. There is history scattered everywhere in the Indian capital.
In Delhi you’re never far from a bit of history!
Please note that, like so many things translated out of a non-roman alphabet, there are multiple spellings of Lodhi. The two most common are “Lodhi” and Lodi”. In this article we are using Lodhi for the garden / park and Lodi for the Sultan whose name it bears. Confusing we know but whoever said India was simple!
Visiting the Lodhi Garden
The Lodhi Garden is the perfect antidote if you have overdosed on city chaos in Delhi. We came here a few times across our three visits to the Indian capital and it always succeeded in being a calming reset after the hubbub and frenetic pace of the city outside.
We would recommend just wandering (we usually do) around the park randomly, it is the best way to have the area surprise you! Wherever you arrive from, north south east or west, you will enter the park not far from one of the ancient buildings.
To the north you have the eponymous Tomb of Sikandar Lodi. This incredibly octagonal tomb is (according to the internet at least) the earliest example of a garden tomb in India. It is an amazing structure set within a courtyard and, like everything in the Lodhi Garden, free to enter and explore.
In the centre of the park is the Sheesh Gumbad (also spelt Shish or Shisha depending on who is writing). Rising up out of the park’s central green lawns this massive tomb/mosque is impossible to miss. The giant domed cube building seems out of place, like a rock in a green ocean, it is strange to think of it being surrounded by buildings and a village in the past.
Inside the building is huge with the decorated domed ceiling towering above. The arched openings on each of the four sides frame different views of the park and are very popular with selfie-taking locals (and tourists!). The whole of the park is ridiculously photogenic and a very popular spot for Indian wedding photoshoots. This in turn makes it a great people watching location!
Just to the south of the Sheesh Gumbad is the Bada Gumbad (or Bara Gumbad, why does everything have 3 spellings….). Literally translating to “Big Dome” the Bada Gumbad lives up to its name. With a similar style to the Sheesh Gumbad, this massive square building is thought to be one of, or even the, earliest full domed building in Delhi. Its exact purpose is unclear, it shares a form with the Sheesh Gumbad tomb but no tomb has been uncovered. One theory is that it is possibly an ornate entrance to…
The Jama Masjid, or Friday Mosque that sits next to and joined with the Bada Gumbad. This mosque and ancient pavilion are beautifully preserved with amazing islamic carvings and a very photogenic avenue of columns!
The arches and columns of the mosque are intricately decorated with stunning calligraphy and geometric designs.
At the southern end of the park is the oldest tomb, the Tomb of Muhammed Shah. This is another incredible octagonal tomb ringed by a covered walkway. Again it is beautiful corner of the park to quietly spend a minute in the company of history.
Throughout the park there are many more structures and ruins, with old walls, mosques and other tombs scattered around. The Lodhi Garden is a great place just to have a wander around. There are also dedicated yoga lawns, if that is your thing, as well as rose gardens, herb gardens and exercise machines (if you are some kind of masochist who likes working out in the 34 degree heat). In the trees above and skittering across the lawns are all manner of birds, chipmunks and squirrels. You will frequently see one of Delhi’s large eagle populations spiralling overhead. You can wander around the parklands, take selfies with ancient ruins and relax on manicured lawns, all within the heart of one of the busiest cities on earth!
The Lodhi Garden is a fantastic place to cool off from the pace of Delhi, it can get busy but it is large enough that we never felt crowded there.
Tips for visiting the Lodhi Garden
How to get to Lodhi Garden
Like most things in Delhi the easiest way to get to the Lodhi Garden is by rickshaw. If you have an Indian SIM card, Uber works very well in the capital and is a very cheap way to get around. You can also easily flag down a rickshaw from the street just be wary to set a price first and keep your wits about you to avoid any rickshaw scams . We would recommend using Uber or Ola as you don't need to negotiate and can see the route you are taking to your destination, this stops most of the common scams before they start. If you haven’t got an Indian SIM, have a look at our guide here.
If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo. Just make sure you install the SIM and app before you land in India.
The nearest metro stations to the Lodhi Garden are Jorbagh on the Yellow line and Khan Market on the Violet line. Both will require a little walk to reach the Lodhi Garden with Jorbagh being the closer of the two (12 minutes walk vs 15 minutes).
How much does it cost to visit the Lodhi Garden?
Nothing, Zilch, Nada. Once you have made your way there it is a free public park. All the monuments are open and there are no entrance costs or ticket barriers to walk around and admire the tombs and ruins! It is a very budget friendly destination.
How long should I spend at the Lodhi Garden?
We hate this question as there is no right answer. Google states you can walk from one end of the park to the other in 20 minutes but this is nowhere near enough time to explore the park properly. We spent well over an hour and sometimes over two on most of our visits to Lodhi gardens but you could easily spend longer if you wanted to relax on the lawns and take a break from the city, maybe even bring a picnic?
Are there toilets at Lodhi Garden?
Yes and they are clean and well maintained. Ellie has tested and approves!
Is there food and drink at Lodhi Garden?
There is no “official” food and drink at the gardens but there are ice cream, chat, snack and drink vendors at every entrance to the park. There are also wandering chat sellers within the park. They are a sight to see, balancing huge pots of lentils and fried goods on their heads before setting up a temporary shop on their spindally portable tripods! The gardens are also nearby to Khan Market (see later on) which has plenty of upmarket food options.
If you are being frugal, do as the locals do and pack a picnic. Just make sure you don't leave any rubbish as the park was pristine when we visited!
What else is there to do after the Lodhi Garden?
There are stacks of things to do in the Indian capital. The Lodhi gardens is located just between the incredible Safdarjung Tomb and the Khan Market. These three together would make a great day out in Delhi. Check out our experience at Safdarjung’s Tomb here .
The Khan Market
If you are looking for an upscale lunch, posh coffee or even an artisan cake after exploring the Lodhi gardens, then the Khan Market has you covered. This high end district is stuffed full of designer brand clothes stores, jewellers and electronics. The Khan Market also boasts many luxurious restaurants offering everything from high end takes on traditional street food to wood fired pizza. If you have been missing some of the luxuries of home (or just really want a good pizza) then the Khan Market can help. In the evening the area comes alive with cocktail lounges and bars where monied Delhiities come out to unwind. It is not a very budget friendly area but sometimes you do just need to treat yourself! We enjoyed some excellent coffees and pastries in the Khan Market after a day out at Safdarjung’s Tomb and the Lodhi Gardens and the good coffee and strong air conditioning was just what we needed. It is also a fun area to go window shopping in, the elegant high end sari shops and avant garde fashion outlets are just fun to have a snoop in!
How to get to the Khan Market
The Khan Market is a 10 minute walk from the northern entrance to Lodhi Gardens or a quick rickshaw ride from the south! You can see it on the map here. The market also has its own metro station (Khan Market Metro) on the Violet line.
The Lodhi Art District
South of the Lodhi Gardens is the Lodhi art district. A few blocks of buildings that have exploded into a riot of colour and art. The last housing estate to have been built by the British has now been taken over by the artists of India with over 50 murals and street art pieces. We have seen street art districts around the world and they never fail to impress us with the inventiveness and talent on display.
If you’d like to learn more about the Lodhi Art District and the street art of Delhi, then why not look at booking this Get Your Guide tour?
How to get to the Lodhi Art District
You can find the art district here. It is 1km ( 15 minute) walk away from Lodhi Garden.
Where to stay? Hotels near Lodhi Garden
Located just 35 minutes drive away from Delhi Indira Ghandi International Airport, the leafy suburbs surrounding the Lodhi Garden and Khan Market would make a great base to explore some of south Delhi’s attractions.
Check out the map below to see what accommodation is on offer:
Other things to do in Delhi
Further afield (but never really more than a cheap uber away) Delhi has tons to offer, from the ancient observatory of Jantar Mantar to the splendor of Humayun’s Tomb there is never a shortage of things to do in the Indian capital. For all our Dehi articles check out our links at the bottom of this post.
Tours in Delhi
If you are short on time or like to be guided by experts then a tour of Delhi may be the best way to make the most of your stay.
For tours of Delhi itself have a look at Get Your Guide below who offer many expert led itineraries in the Indian capital.
For the foodies amongst you we cannot recommend “A Chefs Tour” highly enough. Their tour of the historic Chandni Chowk market was one of our highlights in the whole of India. Check them out here.
Final thoughts on Lodhi Gardens and the Khan Market
Delhi can sometimes be overwhelming but is always full of surprises. For every crowded marketplace there is a serene garden. Visiting Delhi is all about balancing yourself between the exciting chaos versus the calmer green spaces (very zen we know). Luckily the Indian capital has plenty to see on both sides of the excitement scale.
The Lodhi Garden and Khan Market are calm and tranquil and make for an excellent escape from the hectic streets of Old Delhi.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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If you’re looking for something different to do in Delhi, check out the National Railway Museum. This open air train yard is stuffed full of engines, exhibits, turntables and carriages and is a great day out or adults and children alike! Read our guide for all the information you need for visiting this train filled wonderland.