Koh Mak - The Thai Island Happily Frozen in Time
The moment we stepped off the boat and onto the island of Koh Mak we could sense the difference. The usual hubbub of an arrival pier was simplynot there; quieter even than Koh Kood, there was no throng of taxis, just a couple of songthaews waiting patiently. A faded sign welcomed us to Koh Mak, palm trees waved and only a couple of buildings were visible. This was going to be a seriously laid back Thai island.
Koh Mak is a stunning little island in the Gulf of Thailand with so much to offer. From beautiful beaches to amazing seafood, snorkelling and great bars, the island has something for everyone. Backpackers looking for a quiet escape or holiday makers searching for an island break away from the popular beaches, will find Koh Mak has loads to offer. Budget or luxury, explorer or beach bum, Koh Mak has a little something for any traveller.
The beauty of Thai islands is no longer a secret, the word is out and the beaches are swelling with tourists, but not here on Koh Mak, or at least, not yet. You know you are not on a normal tourist island when there isn't a 7-11 to be found! Koh Mak seems untouched and untroubled by the large waves of tourism that have modernised and popularised some of the other Thai islands. Koh Mak is comfortable and happy as it is, with chilled beaches, bars, small resorts and local restaurants - the island doesn't seem to be in any hurry to change.
We took a gamble and betted on Koh Mak for our Christmas Day, the gamble more than paid off. Koh Mak is completely amazing, now let us tell you why!
In this Guide to Koh Mak:
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The Beaches of Koh Mak
Number one on anyone's list for visiting a Thai island are the beaches. Thai islands are legendary for their sandy stretches and with good reason, they are stunning! Luckily, despite its small size, Koh Mak is overflowing with beautiful places to lay down your towel.
Ao Kao / Ao Baan Yai Beach
(location)
This is the most popular beach on the island. The long beautiful beach is lined with hotels, beach bars and resorts and backs onto the busiest strip of restaurants, cafes and accommodation on the island. However, "busiest" on Koh Mak is hardly overcrowded! We visited at the peak of high season (December) and it was never uncomfortably mobbed.
The beach itself is a great spot for a day’s lazing around. The waters are clear and warm and the sand soft. Ao Kao / Ao Baan Yai (really not sure what it was called so we are using both the names from Google), has great views of Rayang Nai island and its proximity to beach bars and restaurants make it a top contender for an all day beach session.
You really cannot beat a Thai island beach - bars, clear water and blue skies, Ao Kao had it all.
Just remember that, in places, a large part of the sand will disappear with the tides. It is usually worth claiming a spot at one of the beach bars and commandeering a deck chair or recliner for the day.
We always headed to Sips Bar, check out, the “Where to Eat” section later for more deets.
Hidden Beach
(location)
This might be cheating as the beach is part of a resort, but it also might be one of our favourite beaches on the island!
Head over to the amazing Hidden Beach Bar (check out more about that in the "Where to Eat" section), grab a beer, smoothie or even some tacos and enjoy the amazing sands, individual private coves and incredible views. Plus it has a pirate ship!
Ao Soun Yai Beach
(location)
Another glorious curve of golden sands and sparkling seas. Ao Soun Yai beach lies a little further out than Ao Kao and is a little quieter with fewer beach bars (don't worry there are still plenty!). The beach is palm fringed and perfect for a swim. There is also a long pier that serves the Koh Mak Resort; when we visited the pier was mainly used as a diving platform for local and holidaying kids.
Yep, that’s another perfect Thai island beach right there. - Note the crowds of people, or rather the lack of them!
There are a few smoothie shops, bars and restaurants dotted about as well as a mini mart / convenience store. Most of the places to eat and shop seemed to be affiliated with the nearby resort. The resort also has a booking office for private boat tours as well as all the usual ferry services.
Ao Soun Yai is also where you can charter a boat to Koh Kham, make sure you read about this and why you shouldn't be like us (and miss it), in our "What to Do" section.
Ao Tan Beach and the Cinnamon Boardwalk
(location)
This is an odd one but 100% worth seeking out. At the end of a long road sits what definitely looks and feels like an abandoned resort. There are closed restaurants, old deserted receptions and staircases of very questionable structural stability. We wandered through all this before coming out to a small counter where we paid a 50 baht entrance fee to access Ao Tan Beach.
The beach stretched away on our right, gold sands, clear water, all as usual for a Thai island, but it was absolutely dominated by the long pier / boardwalk that juts out into the ocean. It is a strange but cool place. The beach is lined by the resort, in all its decaying splendor but our eyes were always dragged back to the enormous pier.
Whether it was due to the entrance cost or being put off by the abandoned vibes, Ao Tan Beach was one of the quietest we encountered on the island. You can rent fishing rods and get drinks or a meal from the ticket counter.
In a final twist to the tale, it looks like the resort may now be open! There are recent Google reviews about staying there and everything! Let us know what it is like in the comments as we cannot picture it!
Laem Son Beach
(location)
Only for the adventurous! This beach is accessed via either a long and windy path through a forest. Or by parking at the end of a road and walking thought a semi-secret path - around here we think! The beach access to Laem Son has been massively restricted by a large private property being built nearby and is now a (fun to be honest) challenge to find.
We fired up our scooters and went to search for the beach. We drove down this road until we saw signs to Laem Son Beach and turned off. The road promptly became a broken stone path, some forgotten entryway into a long abandoned resort. Soon even this road ran out and we continued down a dry dirt path winding under the trees. Eventually we came to a little car park, a clearing and an amazing beach!
Laem Son Beach is large with palm trees dotted about giving shade. There are chairs, swings and plenty of spots to sunbathe. There is also a really lovely beachside restaurant serving delicious looking Thai food as well as beers and other drinks.
Laem Son Beach is also one of the places where you can charter a boat to go and explore Koh Kradat, read more about that later in our 'What to Do' section.
Things to Do on Koh Mak - What is There on the Island?
Koh Mak is a laid back, chilled out island but that doesn't mean there is nothing to do except crispify on the beaches! Koh Mak actually has a surprising amount to do and see for such a small island. From hidden viewpoints in rubber plantations, to secret beaches, diving and tie-dying classes, there is loads to get up to on the island.
This is by no means an exhaustive list, just our favourites, things we missed and what we found when exploring Koh Mak:
Cape Tukata Viewpoint and Pebble Beach
(location)
It wouldn't be an Adventures of Jellie guide without viewpoints! Nearly as far west as it is possible to go on Koh Mak, just past an very exclusive looking resort the road runs out in a small parking area. A short way up a signposted path got us to a cross roads where one track led steeply down and the other steeply up.
The path up was a short, sharp scramble on a slightly overgrown forest path. At the top are two tiny viewpoints. You really cannot fit more than a couple of people in either one. Despite their small size the viewpoints give massive views. They are not for those afraid of heights - the path literally pops out from the forest onto a tiny cliff top plateau. You are surrounded by huge drops and monumental views!
Again, Cape Tukata may not be for you if you have vertigo. Forget swinging a cat, there wasn’t enough room to swing an ant!
The downwards way leads to a tiny cove. Sheltered on all sides by towering rocks, it is a pretty place with secret, secluded vibes. Sitting in the surf, balanced on the jagged rocks below is a huge pillar of stone. Visitors have made little cairns all over the rock, some of them in places that even spiderman would have a hard time getting to! Trees all around the sheltered cove are decorated with rocks and fishing floats hanging from their branches.
Unfortunately, through the action of the tides, lots of rubbish winds up trapped in this little cove. There looks like there have been efforts to tidy up and there were clear mounds where the plastic and fishing jetsam had been collected but there is no easy way to get it out of the secluded cove. There are several rubbish clearing efforts run by various cafes and organisations on the island, consider pitching in if you have the time.
Entrance to the viewpoint and beach is free
Explore the Island
This seems like such an obvious thing to say but you would be amazed how many people do not stray away from their home beach when on a Thai island! Koh Mak is just the perfect size for a few days of unhurried exploration, either by scooter, private tour, or by using the island’s incredibly useful songthaew system (more on all of these in the 'Getting Around' section).
Just pick a new area or two, head off and see what you can find, we explored most of the beaches we spoke about earlier this way, as well as discovering all the things to do we are talking about now.
Koh Mak is a beautiful, 'real' island. It hasn't paved all its roads, its rubber farmers haven't been bought out by resorts (yet!) and the fishermen still push their boats off of the sands and piers. Getting out and exploring by yourself is the best way to really experience the laid back, real world of Koh Mak.
Boat Trips to Koh Kham
From the booking office at Ao Soun Yai you can charter a boat for the short hop across to Koh Kham island.
This might be our biggest Koh Mak regret but .. we didn't do this. It was a combination of it being Christmas, the cost and simply not knowing better, but we did not visit Koh Kham. Now looking at the satellite images on Google Maps, we are kicking ourselves. Private white sand beaches, abandoned resorts, it looks like a near perfect tropical island.
Boats to the island cost 350 baht. This includes the 200 baht island entrance fee and a free drink on the island. You can get a boat any time from Ao Soun Yai and the last boat comes back from Koh Kham at 4pm. The return journey should be included but double check to avoid a nasty surprise!
Another way you can get to Koh Kham, if you are confident with a paddle, is kayak. All the resorts offer kayaks to rent, the only downside is that they are usually charged by the hour, so the cost can rack up fast if you want to lounge on a deserted beach.
Don't be like us, go to Koh Kham, then make us jealous in the comments by telling us all about it!
Cape Kradun and the Koh Mak Cat Shrine
(location) - Take a scooter ride through the rubber plantation until the road runs out and walk the rest of the way. Best done in proper shoes rather than flip flops as the way is rocky. It is not a long walk from where you leave the scooter to the shrine / viewpoint.
So many different kitties!
Cape Kradun gives a sweeping view out over the bay towards Ao Nid and, in the distance, Koh Kood. It is a quiet and very pretty place. After parking our scooter we took the short walk up though a rubber plantation and onto the rocky promontory. As we made our way along the clifftop path we were spied on by several wary felines, this was very appropriate as we were approaching the Cat Shrine of Koh Mak.
Perched on top of the cliff and commanding fantastic views, are small wooden shrines stuffed full of miniature cat statues. Moggies of every shape, size, colour and construction spill out from the shrines and crowd the rock faces. Recently burned incense and freshly opened red Fanta bottles show that these shrines are still revered and used. It is well worth a little wander to.
Spirit Shrines and Red Fanta
In many Thai shrines and spirit houses you will see bottles of red Fanta left. Liquid offerings are common at all shrines and red happens to be a lucky colour. The exact reason for the red Fanta varies depending on who you ask. Wikipedia states it was because it had been endorsed by the Thai King, we were told that red is lucky and that the child spirit "Kumantong" especially enjoys the drink, and an internet expert on the subject (Spirit House Connection), stated that the red Fanta origin can be traced back to blood offerings! We are far from experts but love the Thai tradition of spirit houses and the reverence they have for even the most out of the way shrines.
If you do go to this viewpoint and the Cat Shrines, please make sure to take away any rubbish you bring with you, there are a few spots on Koh Mak where, unfortunately, a lot of rubbish is starting to build up. It is a lovely island but doesn't have the infrastructure to send out loads of garbage patrols to take care of the waste left strewn around by careless (John wanted a lot stronger word than 'careless' here) travellers. Several of the cafes and beach clubs hold regular beach cleaning days, if you have the time and want to give back to the island, consider going on one of these!
Ao Pra Pier - Premium Island Sunsets
(location)
If you are chasing a serious sunset and don't mind paying a little for the privilege, Ao Pra Pier offers an amazing view of the setting sun ... we imagine....
We are budget backpackers so baulked at the 200 baht per person entry fee, however, if we were on holiday and wanted to treat ourselves to a drink with a fantastic sunset view, the Ao Pra Pier and its Blue Pearl Bar would be a great choice. The pier sticks out well into the sea in the north west of the island and has just enough of a peninsula view to really frame a sunset view.
Another great place for a sunset and drink would be the Ta-Lay Resort and Bar - see later in this section for more details on this viewpoint.
For those looking for a cheaper sunset spot Ao Son Yai Beach is free to park on and wander over! If you are looking for a sunset dinner and pizza based treat, make sure you read all about Banana Sunset Bar in our "Where to Eat" section. The island doesn't have many totally west facing beaches but we never felt cheated out of a good sunset. The island is beautiful in the evening no matter where you are.
The sunsets from Banana Sunset bar are simply stunning.
You will not get many better sunsets.
If you are an early bird after a truly incredible sunrise, consider staying on the east of Koh Mak at the wonderful Ao Pong Resort (have a look here). We stayed over Christmas and our raised beach house had one of the best sunrise views imaginable!
Can you imagine a better way to wake up? - Seriously make sure you read about Ao Pong resort in the Accommodation section, there are not many places like it.
Somchai's Love Garden
(location)
Wow...just...wow... We certainly did not expect to find this at the end of a little forest path! This is not one for: families, the easily offended, prudish or those who aren't prepared to see a lot of genitalia, some of it in very unusual positions!
The official name for this open air (open forest really) gallery is “The Kingdom of Somchai's Affection”. The artist Somchai created dozens of concrete sculptures, mainly of women, with a strong emphasis on sexuality and the act of lovemaking. Seriously, as we write this we are wondering which, if any, pictures we can use without getting in trouble.
Somchai was prolific in his sculpture work and women, men, monkeys, cranes and dogs are scattered around his forest gallery. The style is very unique, the figures bodies are exaggerated to an almost comical degree but they share a theme and have obvious intent beyond the exhibitionism. We are no art critics (clearly) but it was certainly interesting and definitely not something we expected to see in a Thai forest!
Finally found a photo that won’t get this blog censored! Somchai’s Love Garden is well worth a visit, just be aware of what you are getting into!
Once you have seen Somchai's work in the forest you will start to see it all over the island, just usually with some extra clothing on! Two colourfully clad ladies greet you to the island near the pier, and the Cat Shrine has a couple of his large eared creations.
Entrance fee for Somchai’s Love Gardent - Free
Take a Boat to Koh Kradad
The second in our saga of “island trips we did not make”. Koh Kradad is one of the larger islands (still tiny) off of Koh Mak. You can take a boat across from a few places on the island - we saw it offered at 400 baht from Laem Son Beach (see more about it back in the “Beaches' section”).
Once on the island you will be treated to a tour around the whole thing by one of Koh Kradad's few inhabitants. You can then laze around on deserted beaches until you feel like coming back to Koh Mak. We didn't have the time to do this but the reviews are very positive. If you make it to Koh Kradad, let us know how it was in the comments.
Ta-Lay Time Restaurant and Viewpoint
(location)
This viewpoint is actually as far south as it is possible to go on Koh Mak. A well maintained dirt road rises up the hillsides of the peninsula until it reaches the Ta-Lay Resort. We parked our scooter in the resort's restaurant's car park and instantly were greeted by a wide angle view of the sun, sea and surrounding islands of Koh Mak. It is free to get in an nobody seemed to mind when we parked our scooter, but if you have the time and money, the bar seats facing out across the view would have made an amazing place to watch the sun set from!
You can also stay at the resort here, it has very good reviews but beyond that we cannot comment!
Koh Mak Museum
This tiny museum sits above Koh Mak Seafood's cafe. It was free to get in and had displays on the history and people of Koh Mak. It won’t take long to have a wander through but is an interesting little diversion whilst on the island.
The cafe that the museum sits on top of is also really good with great coffee and cakes! The museum is listed as being open from 10:30am until 8:00pm every day but we didn't find that to be the case when we visited! Check for a little notice board outside of the Koh Mak Seafood Cafe for the actual opening times.
Take a Class in Tie Dyeing!
(location)
If you are looking to flex your creative muscles on your Thai island adventure, you could do a natural tie-dying workshop. We didn't actually do the workshop but we had a nose around the shop and saw the process whereby the naturally occurring ingredients are turned into colourful dyes!
The workshop costs 1000 baht per person and runs for an hour and half, at 2pm every Tuesday and Thursday. The shop is open everyday so pop on by and have a look if you are interested!
Snorkelling and Scuba Diving off of Koh Mak
There are plenty of opportunities to get underwater on Koh Mak. Nearly every beach bar and ocean-side resort can loan or rent you a snorkel! The waters around Koh Mak are crystal clear (well most of the time!) and there are several famous snorkelling islands nearby. Similarly if you have, or are looking to get your PADI scuba license, there are amazing dive sites near to the island.
On the island there is the Koh Mak Divers, who will help arrange snorkelling or diving trips for you. As it was literally Christmas when we were on Koh Mak and we had a spell of windy weather, it wasn't the ideal time for a snorkelling trip. If you go let us and everyone else know how it was in the comments below!
To do a snorkelling trip or scuba-diving expedition you will need to pay the Koh Rang Marine Park fee. This costs 200 baht per person for snorkelling and 400 baht for scuba-diving. This fee is not usually included in the trip costs - so check before you book!
Where to Eat - the Best Food, Drink and Nightlife on Koh Mak
Koh Mak has plenty of great restaurants, bars and local Thai food to try whilst you are on the island. Even though the island is small you can still enjoy Western comforts, cheap Thai food, cold beers, coffee and cocktails.
These are some of our top picks for where to eat and drink on Koh Mak:
Sweet Cake - Cafe and Bakery
(location)
As soon as we hopped off our ferry we spotted Sweet Cake. Sitting on top of a small hill overlooking the pier and sea, this cute little cafe serves great coffee and baked treats. If you are craving a proper muffin or a sandwich on home-baked bread, this is for you.
As it was so near our accommodation (Ao Pong Resort make sure you read about it in our "Where to Stay" section) this became our go-to for breakfast coffees and pastries.
Sometimes a man just needs a muffin, what can I say!
Dum Noodles
(location)
No matter where you are in Thailand, you will find noodles.
Dum Noodle is a popular and friendly little restaurant in a small arcade of shops near to the Ao Nid Pier. We had perfectly good bowls of bright red Tom Yum Soup here a couple of times. It is more expensive and less spicy than the mainland but that was probably because we didn't ask for any chilli (rookie error).
Dum Noodles are definitely used to catering for passing holiday makers and obviously don't want to blow the heads of any unsuspecting tourist! Remember, if you like spicy food ask for "phed"!
They also serve stir-fry noodles, fried rice and all the usual Thai food favourites.
Koh Mak Seafood - A Real Island Treat
(location)
This is the place for a 'treat yourself' dinner. Set out and above the sea, Koh Mak Seafood is the premier place for a seafood feast. If you are on a Thai island and not sampling the sea's bounty, what are you doing?!
We actually treated ourselves to our Christmas dinner here. Our festive meal was delicious crabs, succulent scallops, seafood fried rice as well as fried morning glory and, of course, a couple of Leo's. Everything was fresh, fantastic and it was definitely a Christmas meal we will always remember.
In answer to the unspoken question: No, it was not as good as it looks, it was far, far better.
Koh Mak Seafood is a treat but it is not overpriced at all in fact, for our 'blowout' crab and scallop Christmas extravaganza, we only spent around 1300 baht! We would say to make sure you book a table if it is a busy period, as the restaurant can fill up.
Do not cheat yourself out of this experience, treat yourselves on Koh Mak and get some great food!
Food Art Hut
(location)
Hands down, no contest and by far and away, the most popular place to eat on Koh Mak. Food Art Hut is the number one brunch, lunch and (slightly less so) dinner spot on the island. It is easy to see why, once you have a look at their menu. They do everything you might be missing from brunch at home. Avocado on toast? There are 11 (eleven!) variations on it. They serve a full breakfast menu as well as Thai food, small plates, smoothies and alcohol. We ate here twice and both times the locally baked bread and fresh ingredients were exactly what we wanted.
We know it is cliché but we do love an avo on toast occasionally!
Food Art Hut is a little more pricey, but you are getting premium imported ingredients. Also, when we say a bit more pricey, we mean for a Thai island, it is an absolute bargain compared to brunch in England!
As it is so popular, Food Art Hut can get seriously busy, so you need to get there early to snag one of the coveted outside tables. Also, as the avocados have to come by ship if you arrive too late, you might find they've sold out!
Mong Kitchen - No Nonsense Thai Food
(location)
If you are looking for a delicious lunch or dinner near Ao Baan Beach, Mong Kitchen has you covered.
Serving all things Thai you can get yourselves pretty much any of the Thai food staples.
Their curries are fantastic with their beef mussaman curry with roti being especially yummy. Again, the fare is all slightly tailored more towards the holiday maker than the local, but it is still delicious Thai food.
River Retreat - Late Nights and Backpacker Fun
(location)
This was the most fun night out we had on Koh Mak. The River Retreat is a guesthouse / hostel with a fantastic little bar that is open until late. With cold drinks, live music and great vibes, River Retreat was the busiest place on the Ao Baan strip. They serve food until late and there is a pool table to play on. It really felt like the backpacker hub of the island when we were there. They frequently hold events and theme nights so check out what’s on whilst you are there!
Sorry we do not have a more interesting picture, every time we came here it was well after dark!
Make sure you check out our accommodation section for more information as you can stay here as well - It would have been our choice had it not been Christmas!
Sips Bar - Pure Island Beach Bar Vibes
(location)
You cannot (by law) visit a Thai island without flopping down on a deckchair at a beach bar. Sips Bar is exactly what we were looking for when we fancied having a beachside beer. Wooden tables, chairs and sun loungers spill out onto the sand and you can just plop down and chill out. They also have a good set of parasols if you want to lounge in the shade.
Beach bar lounging is a governmentally mandated requirement of a Thai island break!
The bar’s location on Ao Baan Yai / Ao Kao Beach means it is a perfect choice if you are looking for a base for an all day beach session.
After dark, the bar switches on its party lights and ignites the fire dancers (hopefully not literally). Check when you are there for scheduled parties and beachside BBQ's.
Banana Sunset Bar - Pizza with a View
(location)
Don't judge a book by its cover and don't judge a bar by its name! Banana Sunset Bar was our go to for a treat meal and a beer with a view. Banana Bar serves up thin-based pizza's as well as small bar snacks, beers and cocktails, it also serves up what may be one of the best sunset views on the island.
It is one of our favourite memories of Koh Mak; sitting out over the rocks, watching the sun boil down towards the sea whilst sipping on a cold beer. We've done many a sunset like this in Thailand but for some reason, Banana Sunset stands out in our memories.
The bar is hidden away behind a small (empty when we visited) resort / co-living space, it is a little out of the way but well worth the walk / drive / taxi ride to get there. For how to get around Koh Mak on a night out, check out our “Getting Around” section later.
Little Red Oven
(location)
If you can't make it to the Banana Sunset Bar but are still craving pizza, the Little Red Oven restaurant is the partner pizzeria to the sunset spot. We didn't eat here ourselves but as it's run by the same people as the Banana Sunset we'll go out on a limb and guess it's great!
Hidden Beach Bar and Restaurant
(location)
Another unexpected delight is Koh Mak’s Hidden Beach.
Did you know that Koh Mak has a secret pirate ship? On a secret bay? With perfect sands? And tacos?!
The beach bar at Hidden Beach was a great little find on a random scooter expedition. Ok so the pirate ship would never have sailed the seven seas and may well have seen better days, but this little beach bar was an amazing and delicious discovery.
The lovely staff were great, smoothies fresh (and enormous) and the beachside setting just perfect.
Hidden Beach is also part of a resort and do some amazing rooms - as you can see here.
We told you! A pirate ship!
Koh Mak Art House
(location)
A local hub for islanders, holidaymakers and backpackers, the Koh Mak Art House provides arty experiences during the day and laid back cocktails, beers and soft drinks at night - all served with lashings of hippy vibes.
When we visited it was doing a food partnership with some of the nearby restaurants so you could order a meal and have it delivered to the bar! There are loads of events held at the Art House as well as live music, so it is always worth checking out what is going on there.
We ordered some especially yummy burgers (authentic Thai we know) from the nearby Mono's Terrace Food & Drinks - if you wanted actual Thai food you could order from Khun Mam's Kitchen.
Terraria Cafe and Slow Bar
(location)
If you are looking for posh things on toast (and can't get into / have had enough of the Food Art Hut), Terraria Cafe has you sorted. It is a little pricy for the portion size but the food we had there was good. If you're after a sweet treat, we can hands down recommend their cinnamon buns.
The cafe is also the partner to the Terraria Bar in the middle of the island and sometimes gives promotions and discounts for drinks there. As an extra bonus the owner also has an adorable bearded dragon!
Where to Stay on Koh Mak - Hostels, Resorts and Hotels
Whatever kind of visitor you are to Koh Mak: backpacker, family holiday or luxury jet-setter, there will be a place for your budget and preference. The island may be small but it has plenty of different accommodation choices; from the most basic budget hostels to the bougiest of boutique resorts, whatever your comfort level, you will be able to find it on Koh Mak.
Ao Pong Resort - Our Beachfront Choice
(location)
Ao Pong may be one of our favourite accommodations we have ever stayed in! Set a short walk from the main ferry pier, you have your own private beach and beautiful old school beach house accommodation. Seriously, this is the one if you are looking for beach life island vibes. We stayed in one of the old fashioned beach houses over Christmas and it was magical.
This was our room’s view - Not too bad :P
Ao Pong is a resort in name only. The accommodation is no frills, basic but comfortable and comes with unbeatable beach and sea views. The accommodation faces out to the east so you get out of this world sunrises and, as it does not face the sunset, it stays a pleasant temperature. We had air conditioning in our room (we were treating ourselves for Christmas after all), but we never needed anything other than the fan.
The rocky beach is small, intimate and feels really private. You can borrow snorkels or even rent a kayak. It was amazing to get a beach bungalow, private beach and views like this for the price we paid - honestly we thought this era of Thailand's tourism was well in the past and we're so happy we found it.
This was our little private beach. The short path to Ao Pong, leads to the resort, beach and no where else, so it is effectively completely private!
There are traditional wooden beach houses and now some new fancy looking concrete rooms. We stayed in a wooden stilted bungalow and absolutely loved it. There is a small restaurant on site and the lovely owners rent bicycles and scooters out.
Ao Pong is a good distance away from the main "hub" of the island but is nearby to a large shop (handy for essentials and beer), Dum Noodles, Sweet Cake and the excellent Koh Mak Seafood. Check out the above section for all our food reviews.
There is also an easy island-wide taxi service to get you around for a night out - see later on for more details.
We cannot sing the praises of Ao Pong enough, if you're interested, have a look at rooms here.
The River Retreat Koh Mak
(location)
This would have been our choice if it had not been Christmas and we could not get into Ao Pong Resort. The River Retreat seems to be the backpacker heart of Koh Mak. Its bar / restaurant was thriving even when others were quiet and the rooms looked great. We had a couple of fantastic nights out chatting to travellers and listening to live music in their hostel bar.
The River Retreat is also in a fantastic location, slap bang in the middle of Koh Mak's busiest hub and a very short walk from the most popular beach - Ao Kao. The rooms cost more than a hostel on the mainland would, but they are fantastic looking and in such a great location. Also if you are on a really tight budget, and don't mind being mildly boiled, they offer tents as well!
Check out the rooms here.
Hostels in Ao Kao
There are a few other hostel and budget choices in the Ao Kao Beach area. They were a little quiet when we visited (Christmas time) but were in a great area. We did not stay at these but they are well reviewed and could be an option for budget travellers like us:
Hotels and Luxury Resorts
Koh Mak has no shortage of exclusive and luxurious places to stay. If you have a larger budget than us and feel like treating yourself to a proper island escape, check out these options:
Seavana Resort
This is currently the highest rated by reviews and looks completely, decadently fantastic. The suites with a roof lounge and hot tub look especially bougie...
Have an ogle yourself here.
Hidden Beach Resort
We stumbled across this gorgeous resort when we visited its amazing Beach Bar (see above). The staff were lovely and the food was amazing so we had a nose around the rooms. The accommodation looks fantastic and the location is incredible, take a look here.
All Accommodation Choices on Koh Mak
There are literally dozens of other choices for any level of luxury or budget, have a look at our handy map for all of Koh Mak's accommodation choices:
Zoom in or out to see all the different choices!
Where is Koh Mak?
You can find Koh Mak on a map here.
Koh Mak is the smallest of a string of three islands on the eastern side of the Gulf of Thailand - okay, there are lot more islands than three but they are tiny! Koh Mak is a little island, only 10km from one side to the other. Its sister islands of Koh Chang and Koh Mak are both within 20km of Koh Mak shores.
The island chain is part of the province of Trat and the nearest city is Trat City. Koh Mak is around 300km South East of Thailand's capital of Bangkok.
Koh Mak island sits in the clear blue waters 30km off of the Thai mainland. The more famous islands of Koh Samui, Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao sit on the opposite side of the Gulf of Thailand over 360km away.
Getting to and from Koh Mak
Koh Mak is only accessible by ferry - there is no commercial airport on the island. To get to Koh Mak you either need to be on one of the neighbouring islands of Koh Chang or Koh Kood or, be coming from the pier in Trat on the mainland.
Depending where you are starting from or hoping to get to, you have several options for getting to Koh Mak:
Getting to Koh Mak from the Mainland - Ferries & Speedboats from Trat
The easiest way from mainland Thailand to Koh Mak is the ferries that run multiple times a day from a few piers in the province of Trat on the mainland.
Boonsiri run ferries from the Hat Lek Pier and Laem Sok Pier. They also run transfer services from Trat Airport and even all the way from Bangkok!
The other operators mainly run speed boats to Koh Mak from Laem Ngob / Laem Ngop Pier. From Laem Ngob there were at least two different operators running 4 boats to the island per day. When we visited all the departures to Koh Mak were in the morning, so factor this in if you are planning to leave from this pier.
The Laem Ngob Pier seems to be the one that the operators in Trat town will use if you buy your ticket through your accommodation there. If this is the case, nearly all of them will include or offer a hostel / hotel pickup to get you to your pier at the right time!
You can buy tickets from your accommodation in Trat town (we stayed at the cheap and lovely Pano Solar Guesthouse, who arranged all our ferry transfers for us). Alternatively if you are holiday planning, not staying in Trat, or just want everything confirmed in advance, you can book online via 12Go here.
Whichever pier you depart the mainland or islands from, you will arrive on Koh Mak on Ao Nid Pier. From here it is easy to arrange transport to your accommodation if it is not already included in your ticket cost. There are always taxi's waiting by the pier, they should cost 50 baht per person to anywhere on the island, however there is a minimum charge of 100 baht so make sure you group up before travelling! Check out the section on getting around Koh Mak for more details about the island wide taxi service.
Koh Mak has made a lot of progress and prides itself on being a “green” island. Many of the businesses and stores have stopped serving plastic bags and there are lots of green initiatives on the island.
If you are travelling from Trat Airport to Koh Mak you can arrange a transfer on arrival at the airport or book in advance here.
Bangkok to Koh Mak
If you are travelling from Bangkok to Koh Mak you can book a ride all the way on a minibus. Check out tickets here.
It is a 7 and a half hour journey from Bangkok to Koh Mak.
For those who really are in a hurry (and have deeper pockets), you can fly from Bangkok to Trat then take the above airport transfer to the island. You can see the ticket prices below:
Flying is not actually as crazy as it seems. If Koh Mak is the first or last destination on you Thai adventure then you can cut down on the airport visits and shorten your travel days considerably by flying to or from Trat.
Getting to Koh Mak from the Islands - Speedboats from Koh Chang and Koh Kood
If you are already on one of the other beautiful islands nearby, firstly make sure you have read our guides to Koh Chang and Koh Kood! After your done, just relax as it is very easy to get between the islands.
Ferry / speedboat from Koh Chang to Koh Mak
Book tickets from your accommodation, any tour office on the island, or book in advance via 12Go below:
If you are on Koh Chang you will need to get to the Bang Bao Pier to catch your ferry. Most tickets will include a transfer from the major resorts and towns. Check before you travel!
Ferry from Koh Kood to Koh Mak
Again, you can book a speedboat between the two islands easily from your hotel, resort or hostel. If you are travelling in the high season and want to book a ticket in advance, you can via 12Go below:
Ferries between Koh Kood and Koh Mak depart from the Ao Salat / Ao Salad Pier on Koh Kood.
Before getting on the ferry, Ellie was invited to a photo session with the ships captain and some local official. Why? We will never know!
Leaving Koh Mak -
Where Next?
When the time comes to leave Koh Mak, you will need to head back to the Ao Nid pier, cast a longing glance back at the beautiful little island and board a ferry onwards. From Koh Mak you can head to Koh Kood, Koh Chang or back to the mainland, just use the above suggestions, but in reverse.
There is also the tiny island of Koh Wai you could explore. Smaller even than Koh Mak this looks like a proper island escape. There are only a couple of resorts on the island and they close down during the wet season. You can have a look here, if you go please let us know what it is like in the comments!
If you are looking for something a little different, consider the province and city of Trat. Both the town and the province are full of unexpected awesomeness. From cheap and delicious seafood, to stunning temples, beaches and coast roads there is a lot to see in this lesser visited corner of Thailand.
From Koh Mak / Trat you are not far from the border with Cambodia, so you can easily use Trat as a jumping off point into a Cambodian adventure.
At the present moment, Thailand has closed its tourist borders with Cambodia. We hope the situation resolves itself soon and will update our transport advice when it does.
Getting around on Koh Mak Transport on the Island
Koh Mak is not a huge island by any means but it is large enough that you will need to think about transport. It would take hours to walk the island end-to-end and that would be no fun in the scorching Thai heat. Depending where you stay you should have plenty within walking distance to do, eat and see but you will definitely need some kind of wheels to get out and about and explore the island. Luckily Koh Mak has come up with a few ways to get around:
Rent A Bicycle
Peddle bikes are a really popular way to get about on Koh Mak. Several of the resorts and hostels will either give you one for free or loan one out at a reasonable price. The island is mainly flat and there is barely any road traffic, so if you are looking to go beach to beach the bike is a great, and healthy option.
We have to also give a special shout out to the lovely people at Koh Mak Information and Bike Rentals.
They gave us free water refills, maps around the island and loads of advice, without once trying to pressure us into a sale or a rental - we had pulled up to have a look on our scooter so clearly were not in need of transport, they were just really nice people. If you are a family and need a squad of bikes, or you just want to rent a good bike from a central location, give them a go!
Renting A Scooter
You knew it was coming, Thai islands always offer scooter rental and it is the most fun (and laziest) way to explore. It really opens up the island and offers such a sense of freedom. On a peddle bike you might not gamble your time with an unknown road or a long detour, on a scooter it is no bother.
Everywhere on the island will rent you a scooter. We rented an elderly automatic from our accommodation for 250 baht per day, this appeared to be the island price. All the usual scooter rental warnings apply: wear a helmet, video the scooter’s condition, do not drive if you are not confident and the most important: don't be an idiot.
You can find petrol for sale at local shops (usually in repurposed rum bottles).
Golf Carts on Koh Mak
We know this is an odd one, and personally we cannot think of a more embarrassing method of getting around, but, if you have a family it could make sense to have a larger means of transport. Several of the resorts will offer electric cart rentals, generally around the 800-1000 baht per day range. Just do not attempt any of the more rural roads, or steeper hills!
Koh Mak Island Taxis - the Brilliant Songthaew Service
Koh Mak has an ace up its sleeve when it comes to getting around. There is a network of songthaews across the island that can be summoned via WhatsApp to wherever you may be and take you wherever you want to go. Songthaews are the large open-sided taxi-trucks found all over Thailand. On the mainland they usually run pre-defined routes like a bus, on the island they function more like shared taxis.
These songthaew taxis were so useful. They meant you could go for a night out in a distant bar and still get home without having to trek across the island in the dark.
The songthaew taxi is also very reasonably priced (for Thai island transport). During the day, the taxi service costs 50 baht per person, per journey with a minimum spend of 100 baht. The cost goes up if you need a taxi after 10pm, doubling to the, still quite reasonable, 100 baht per person.
You can also negotiate directly with the drivers if you want a multi-stop or even a full day tour of the island. This would be a great way to explore with a family or with a hostel group; especially if you do not like the idea of two-wheeled transport on your island break. The songthaews can easily fit 8+ people so large families or hostel groups are not a problem.
If you do not have mobile data, any restaurant, bar, hotel or hostel will happily arrange a taxi for you.
When we visited the numbers we used for the taxis were:
+66 920 547 275
+66 828 877 966
+66 959 699 566
Double check the numbers when you visit as they were personal mobiles of the drivers and may change!
When calling / texting they will often refer you on to the taxi nearest to wherever you are on the island.
When to Visit Koh Mak - What is the Best Season?
We will preface this by reminding everyone that we have only visited Koh Mak in one season, the hot and dry peak tourist season! We are not going to pretend we know what it is like in the low tourist times of the wet season months.
That being said, this is our reasoning for visiting when we did.
Dry Season
High season runs from November to April, where you can expect warm weather, clear(er) skies and much better beach and swimming conditions. It will also be the busiest season for tourists, especially around the holidays. However, we visited literally over Christmas and the island was far from overcrowded! If you are planning to travel during the dry season consider booking accommodation and transfers in advance, just in case they sell out!
Wet Season
Low season is May to October. During this time rain will be much more frequent and usually torrentially heavy. The seas will be rougher and less clear and many activities will not be on offer (organised snorkelling, island hopping etc). Some (but not all), of the resorts will close and lots of the island will shut down. Again we did not travel in the wet season so cannot really report on what it is like on the island but we have travelled to other Thai islands in the wet season and had fantastic times. As long as it is not your only holiday for a year and you can accept that things will be quiet, closed or not available, you may be able to enjoy a cheaper, more secluded island break during the wet months.
Beaches do look better under blue skies.
Island Alternatives During Thailand’s Wet Season
If you are travelling during Thailand's wet season, and really want a properly sunny beach break. Have a look a little further afield - take a peak at the beautiful island of Karimunjawa in Indonesia.
Koh Mak at Christmas - Our Experience on the Island
Christmas on a Thai island is certainly different from in London!
After a lot of deliberation we had set our hearts on spending Christmas on a Thai island. We had been travelling around South East Asia for 3 years at this point and wanted a nice Christmas break from our long term, budget backpacking. Over the course of December we would work our way around Thailand's eastern islands.
First we would head to the big, busy and fun Koh Chang, then hop on a speed boat across to the laid back and beautiful Koh Kood before moving to little Koh Mak for a secluded Christmas break. We had never visited any of these islands before and wanted to have a really special, backpacking, island hopping, Christmas experience.
It worked, it worked sooooo well!
Christmas on Koh Mak is everything we wanted it to be; there was festivities and fun but it hadn't dominated or taken over from the island vibes. It felt like Koh Mak struck a perfect balance between making us feel special for choosing it for our Christmas spot whilst not sacrificing any of its own personality. There were bar parties and specials at the restaurants. All the larger resorts were doing something for Christmas and the piers and beaches had (frankly hilariously out of place), Christmas trees and reindeer.
Yet despite all this, it still felt like a real place, Koh Mak is always true to itself it seems and, even though it was the massive Western commercial holiday of Christmas, the island lost none of its laid back charms.
Finally, and possibly most importantly, Koh Mak was not overcrowded! Even though it was the middle of the high season, even though it was Christmas, the island did not feel crowded in the slightest, there was a buzz but nothing suffocating, it felt special, like a secret only a few knew.
Conclusion - Our Final Thoughts on Koh Mak Island
In case you couldn't guess from the above, we loved Koh Mak. It is not really an island we had heard of before, but we are so glad it popped up on our radar. It has the indefinable charm of a true 'old school' Thai island. The people are genuinely friendly, the island is not overdeveloped and you can even still stay in a lovely beach cabin without having to sell your house!
We have avoided the question asked on every blog about every island in Thailand: “How long should I spend there?”. There is no right answer You can spend as long as you want on Koh Mak! Holiday makers could spend a couple of days or a couple of weeks depending on how much relaxing on a beach they want to do. Backpackers could dip their toes in for a few days and then decide if they want to take a longer break. The island is laid back and so should you be!
We are long term backpackers and adore the Thai islands. Even though Koh Mak was the 13th (insert spooky noises here) Thai island we have visited, it was fantastic, unique, unexpected and beautiful.
Koh Mak is (hopefully) small enough to continue to fly under the radar of mass redevelopment. For now it remains gloriously simple and simply glorious.
We always say this with Thailand’s islands, but it is true:
We will be back.
Thanks for reading,
John and Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
The Other Eastern Islands of Thailand
Make sure you check out our guides to the little oases of Koh Kood and the huge (Thailand’s 3rd largest) island of Koh Chang:
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Thailand’s Koh Kood is an undiscovered tropical paradise. The island is still a hidden gem and boasts some of the prettiest beaches we’ve ever seen - think white sand, crystal clear turquoise water and swaying palms. Read our complete Koh Kood guide to find out everything you need to know about visiting the island. From what to do and where to stay, the best hostels, hotels and resorts to where to eat and drink and how to get to the island, we share it all!