Mount Lavinia - A Day Trip to Colombo’s Local Beach
A short train ride from Colombo, Mount Lavinia beach is a perfect, chilled out beach side escape from the city. Check out our full blog post on our how we got there and what we got up to.
Our very expensive train tickets!
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It had only been a week since our trip to the Princes Islands and we were already craving a day with the sand between our toes. To that end we decided on a day trip out to Colombo’s own beach - Mount Lavinia
Getting to Mount Lavinia
A short walk from our hostel, we arrived at Kollupitiya railway station. This was to be our first experience of Sri Lanka’s train network and one we won’t forget for a while! The first point of difference to the British railway network was the price of a ticket. For a 20 minute journey we handed over the princely sum of 30 LKR for the two of us (7p or 0.8 cents). When the train arrived, (its scheduled time was just a suggestion) we bundled aboard and were trundled on down the line. The sea air blowing through, with young Sri Lankan men hanging out the open doors of the train carriage.
Sea Turtles Conservation Centre Colombo
Getting off at Mount Lavinia station we headed off to the town. We took a couple of wrong turns and wound up on the wrong side of the tracks, literally. Dotted between the train tracks and the beach, we passed by lean-tos, beach houses and makeshift shacks until completely by accident we found ourselves at the Sea Turtles Conservation Centre. This tiny, beach side rescue Centre raises turtles from eggs bought from locals (to stop them being sold for food) as well as nursing injured turtles back to health. We saw a variety of extremely cute turtles from an Albino Loggerhead (who was actually named John), Leatherbacks and Tiger turtles. There was also a tank of tiny one week old baby turtles awaiting their release. We did get to hold the turtles which was lovely, although in hindsight we’re not sure of the ethics of this. The ticket price included a tour around all the tanks, with explanations of the turtles and the conversation work being done. Our guide also mentioned that volunteering opportunities were available at the Centre. Tickets to the Sea Turtle Conservation Centre were 1000 LKR each (£2.30 or $2.78). For something we literally stumbled upon this was well worth the money. Also baby turtles are ridiculously cute!
I named him Flappy…
Looking up and down the beachfront after our turtle experience we began to wonder if we were actually in the right place. We had seen photos of beach front restaurants, people swimming, playing with kites etc but what we saw was a near deserted stretch of sand, piled high with fishing boats and nets. A quick Google Map search later and our error was revealed. We had gone south from Mount Lavinia station rather than north, and we were now on Galkissa beach not Mount Lavinia. A quick but very sweaty walk (this was to become a recurring state for us) had us retracing our steps.
Food on the Beach at Mount Lavinia
Once we actually made it to Mount Lavinia beach it was as the photos had promised. It was a Sunday, and the beach was busy with families, couples and the occasional tourist. People strolled the sands, sipped beers from the beachside bars, played with kites and paddled in the water. The sea is very rough at this time of year (July) so swimming wasn’t really advisable but we had come for beach vibes and beach vibes we found. Sunglasses on and our stomachs rumbling we headed to Sugar Beach bar and restaurant. Our careful selection process that led us to choosing this place was:
a) that it was open
b) that we were standing next to it
Ellie went for the Batticaloa style prawn curry and John had the West Coast seafood fried rice. Both dishes were served with spicy sambals and other garnishes. This was a beachside place so the prices were a little higher, but the food came out fresh, tasty and well presented. A good lunch, and a couple of Lion beers had us feeling well disposed towards the world so we went for a stroll down the beach.
The Beach Itself
The beach was a hub of activity in the late afternoon sun. We passed rugby matches, impromptu cricket games and many, many people taking selfies. Elsewhere in Colombo the train line hugs the coastline stopping any beaches or waterside promenades (thank you Britain) but here in Mount Lavinia the railway line curves inland at the bottom of the beach and rattles down behind the beachside buildings. The restaurant we had eaten lunch in had a special door where you could cross the tracks or at least watch the trains thunder past. As the sun began to fall, we came to the conclusion that sunset beers were needed. There were plenty of bars, dotted along the beach so we grabbed a couple of semi decayed plastic chairs and a similarly dilapidated table and flopped down with a couple of frosty Lion Lagers.
Mount Lavinia beach faces the setting sun so we had front row seats for the show. As it dipped down and eventually below the horizon, the sky melted through a spectrum of colours. Blue bleeding to orange, before finally turning purple and fading black.
We finished our beers, happy with our decision to spend the day at Mount Lavinia.
Thanks for reading.
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
*Prices correct at time of writing - (August 2022)
Sea Turtle Conservation - https://ourturtleproject.wixsite.com/otcp
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Colombo - Our Guide to Sri Lanka’s Capital
Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital city, is often overlooked as a travel destination do not make this mistake! Read our guide to find out just how delicious, welcoming and fun the Sri Lankan capital can be!
Colombo is often overlooked as a travel destination. Lots of guides we read, would skip the capital altogether, or use it as only a transfer point from the airport to a train/bus elsewhere. This is a huge mistake, we spent a total of 5 days in the Sri Lankan capital and against our expectations we really loved it! Read on to see what we got up to during our time in Colombo.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
In our guide to Colombo:
Lost and Found Hostel
Other Accommodation in Colombo
Arrival and getting a Sri Lankan Visa
We landed at Colombo airport, still half disbelieving that we were in Sri Lanka. The second we stepped off the plane, we knew we were back in Asia, the humidity and heat wrapping around us like a slightly sweaty duvet. In normal times, you can apply for a visa online and just go through customs, however the website had been down each time we had tried to do this, so we got a visa on arrival. This was a quick and painless process, and from what we understand was not more expensive than the online version. We paid $40 USD each (as UK citizens) for a 30 day visa. Please note they accept cash only but there are ATMs available for you to withdraw money.
Sim Cards in Sri Lanka
Once outside customs, we picked up two very cheap Sri Lankan Airtel SIM cards giving us unlimited calls, texts and 1GB of data each day. These came to the heavy price of 1200 LKR each (£2.75 each). Once installed and Sri Lankan rupees withdrawn, we called our contact in Colombo.
If you wanted to have your sim card in advance check out an eSIM, these app based sims allow you to prearrange your mobile and internet coverage so you are never without. Check our Airalo for a quick solution:
Staying in Colombo - Lost and Found Hostel
Indika from our hostel (Lost and Found more on this later) came to the airport to pick us up. This airport pickup was a huge weight off our shoulders as due to the fuel shortages, the airport taxis had skyrocketed in price and the airport bus to the city was shaky in its reliability.
Indika was a star. Giving us a brief rundown on the current situation, reassuring us that the city was safe to walk around, even at night and pointing out recommendations and points of interest on the drive to the hostel. The drive to our hostel was quicker than it would have been in normal times, the roads although not deserted, were far too quiet for a main approach road to a capital city. The fuel crisis again was apparent everywhere, with long queues of vehicles around every fuel station we passed. Our journey took us around half an hour.
Pulling into a sleepy side street in a quiet neighbourhood we arrived at our accommodation, the Lost and Found hostel. It described itself as a hostel and we’re not experts on hostels, but we were surprised to find a four poster bed in a massive room awaiting us. We booked a private room, but we didn’t expect this!
Lost and Found was a cute and cosy hostel, with its own restaurant serving food from 8am until 10pm. The restaurant area also doubled up as the communal space and was covered from the elements with fans to help with the heat. We heartily recommend Lost and Found for all the above reasons as well as the fact that the location is great (within walking distance of everything within Colombo and close enough to public transport to get you further). The staff are fantastic and very welcoming. Indika really went above and beyond helping us out, right up until the day we left where he even held a spirited negotiation with a local tuk tuk driver to take us and our bags to Colombo’s Fort railway station.
Other Accommodation choices in Colombo
If you are looking for something more luxurious than a hostel then check out the map below for all the accommodation choices in Colombo:
What to Do in Colombo
We spent a couple of days in Colombo doing what we do best, aimlessly wandering around. We meandered through Viharamahadevi Park, populated by an army of chipmunks as well as local Sri Lankans out on dates or simply enjoying the cool green space. We even stumbled upon a wedding photo shoot. The park also houses the Colombo National Library and is next to the Colombo National Museum (we did try to visit the museum but it was closed on both occasions we went, possibly due to the unrest).
Beira Lake
Further along our walk, we found ourselves at the Beira Lake neighbouring the Gangaramaya Temple. The lake actually wraps around a large part of the city with two lakes connected by a large canal / river. We arrived at sunset, and were greeted by murders of increasingly cheeky crows (John’s always wanted to use the collective noun)! The crows were everywhere, and seemingly totally unfazed by humans, but constantly eyeing us up for food opportunities.
The lake itself is a twitchers paradise (especially during sunset) with white storks, bright blue and black kingfishers, herons and other elegant flappy things (could you guess we’re not natural bird watchers). Flowers and lilies dot the surface of the water, and a small temple juts out into the lake (more on this later). There is also a small island that was sadly closed when we were there but would have given great 360 degree views of the lake and surrounding city.
Gangaramaya Temple
One of Colombo’s cultural gems is the Gangaramaya Temple. The temple is split across two sites, with the main temple being on a road just off the lake, and another smaller set of temples/shrines on the lake itself. Gangaramaya Temple is an active place of worship for Buddhists so you will need to dress appropriately (knees and shoulders covered) and you will need to leave your shoes at the entrance. Entry for the temple cost us 500 LKR each (£1.14 or $1.39). Tickets are purchased at the main temple site and not the one on the water. The main temple is a beautiful mix of different styles of Buddhist architecture and paintings. There is a large reclining Buddha, ornate carvings and countless statues. The suggested path through the temple, weaves you through museums, past artefacts and around a gorgeously enshrined Bodhi tree. The Gangaramaya Temple is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Colombo and in addition to being a place of worship, the temple is also a centre for learning. After passing by relic chambers, a stepped temple filled with seated Buddhas and a taxidermy elephant, we collected our jaws from the floor and made our way to the temple on the lake.
The Lake Temple
We scampered barefoot across the tiles to the temple on the lake. The soles of our feet burning from the sun baked stone. The replacement for the previous temple (that had previously sank) the Gangaramaya Lake Temple is unusual in many respects. It was financed from a generous donor from a Muslim merchant, the statues that line the temple are all donated from Thailand, and the riot of colour that was on display in the land temple, is missing. The lake temple is calm and tranquil with the statues' reflections in the rippling lake making it a suitable place for meditation. A trip to Colombo should not be without a visit to both parts of the Gangaramaya Temple. It was fascinating to see and left us with a deeper appreciation of Colombo’s spirituality.
Pettah and Manning Markets
On another one of our random perambulations (can you tell when John insists on a word), we headed north to Colombo’s sprawling markets. In total contrast to our sleepy and calm neighbourhoods, the market district was a total attack on the senses. Tuk tuk horns blaring, throngs of people, and every variety of goods imaginable, spilled out into the packed streets. We spent a whole morning wandering around the different areas of the market. Nearer the train station are more of the defined “shops” of Pettah market, selling homewares, electronics, toys etc. Further east, we found the fresh fruit and vegetable markets of Manning market. Strolling through the cramped aisles, we passed by every colour and variety of fruit. Our sense of smell was assaulted when we turned down an alley where each seller seemed to specialise in selling a different type of dried fish. The markets were exactly what we had hoped to find, a complete and definitive reminder that we were far from home.
The Dutch Hospital
To the west of the markets you start to see more and more reminders of Colombo’s colonial past. Old buildings bearing the names of shipping companies, and streets named after Western dignitaries. One particularly impressive set of Colonial buildings, the Dutch Hospital has been converted into a swanky shopping/dining complex. It is here you will find the original world famous Ministry of Crab restaurant. Sometimes we are posh packers, but after looking at the prices on the menu, we decided that Ministry of Crab was definitely not going to be our lunch stop that day. One day… one day!
Galle Face
If you had been following the news at the time in Sri Lanka, our next destination would be an image you would be familiar with. Galle Face was the focal point and home of the 2022 protests. We were not going to be involved with any kind of politics, but Galle Face was on our way back to the hostel and there were no protests happening on that day. We passed the Old Parliament Building, its railings torn down and the front bedecked in protest banners. From here, we made our way down Galle Face Drive, past the remnants of the protest camp. The camp itself was very impressive. It was almost more of a village than the collection of tents we had seen on the news. We passed media tents, water distribution points, and highly organised recycling/sorting areas. A vast sign made of plastic bottles forced into a wire fence carried the protesters slogan “Go Home Gota”.
Galle Face is a waterfront area, with a large green park. In more normal times the area would be buzzing with locals and street food vendors, however as we were there in the early afternoon and with the current situation, it was very quiet. We walked past a giant metal flip flop, we can’t find any information about this online (if you know what it was, please let us know) which was very impressive to see, then passed a huge flag pole surrounded by cannons, past a pier jetting off into the sea and continued our way back to our hostel.
Food in Colombo
No guide to a city would be complete without mentioning some of our favourite places to eat food. Colombo offers many choices from every type of cuisine, but we predominantly ate the local Sri Lankan food.
A few back alleys away from Lost and Found, was an excellent rice and curry joint. Named Praneetha Foods, this local haunt served a large variety of curries. Just walk up to the counter, point to four or five of whatever looks good (there are vegetable, meat and fish options) and be delivered a massive plate of rice and your chosen curries.
Both times we were there we had a specially good beetroot curry. We’ve never seen or had this before, and after trying it we don’t understand why this isn’t everywhere as it was delicious! For two plates of rice and curry and two bottles of water we paid 1590 LKR.
One of our many rice and curries!
Other than rice and curry we also enjoyed a very strange but tasty meal. Wandering a back alley after enjoying a couple of pints of Lion lager at a sports bar, we stumbled upon a friendly man who shanghaied us from the street and sat us down on his eatery's sole metal table. Over the blaring sounds of the television (showing some kind of bloody action film) we asked what he made, and in broken English he said he had one thing on offer which was some kind of stir fry.
We ordered a big plate to share, and was promptly delivered what can only be described as stir fried macaroni pasta. This really shouldn’t have been good, but it was spicy, with crunchy fresh vegetables and smoky stir fried pasta. The mountain of a plate was swiftly demolished by us. We think this place was called Ruchira Hotel but it was dark and it may well have been 19 Hotel as there were signs for both.
Moral of the story, just go for it. There’s no way we would have sought this place out or chosen what we ate from a menu but allowing ourselves to go with the flow, we enjoyed a yummy unique meal and gave ourselves an awesome memory. We paid 750 LKR for the enormous plate of food and two drinks.
Liberty Plaza Shopping Centre
Another random meal we enjoyed was a surprisingly excellent fried rice. Seeking our air conditioning and a new tripod, we ducked into Liberty Plaza shopping centre. 98% of the shops here appeared to be phone/or electronic shops. With at least 6 of them claiming to be genuine Apple stores… In a dark and dingy basement was a food court. Our hostel had mentioned it was really good, and the whole food court was busy with Sri Lankan’s munching down.
We opted for a very simple chicken fried rice. When it arrived, we tucked in and found to our surprise (looking back this really should not have been surprising) that it was a sort of curried fried rice and not the standard Chinese style one we expected. Super addictive, and unbelievably morish the plate did not last long. Unfortunately we didn’t write down how much this cost, but it was extremely cheap.
Colombo Tours and Guides
If you are looking for some tours in Colombo or other curated experiences check out Get Your Guide below, they provide a range of itineraries across Sri Lanka.
Final Thoughts on Colombo
The time we spent in Colombo was surprising in all the best ways. The people of Colombo had been universally wonderful to us. Little old ladies kept stopping Ellie in the street for a chat, and even the armed police took pity on us and helped us cross an especially busy road. The food had been great, the accommodation brilliant and our days had been filled with interesting adventures.
Colombo deserves a visit, and if you hurried you could probably have condensed your stay to be shorter than ours. On the other side when we left there were still lots of things we hadn’t managed to see (the National Museum, the wetlands park and multiple archaeological sites to mention a few). There’s also a great day out to be had at Mount Lavinia beach, a short train ride away from the city.
Colombo is much more than just a capital and convenient transport hub and definitely deserves a visit.
Thanks for reading.
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Destination - Sri Lanka!
Read all about our journey to the beautiful country of Sri Lanka. We leave the ancient city of Istanbul and board our plane just as Sri Lanka’s civil unrest of 2022 comes to a head.
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Sri Lanka, ever since we stumbled upon the Budgeteers YouTube channel, Sri Lanka had been where we wanted our adventure to start. We had been delayed by a pandemic, and briefly distracted by an amazing week in Istanbul, but now was finally time. After a final cheeky pint of Efes on “Bar street” and one quickly downed kebab, we bundled ourselves into a taxi bound for the airport. Our nerves jangling, unsure if we would, or even if we should reach our destination.
Okay, time for some context.
Visiting Sri Lanka in a time of crisis
Sri Lanka was, at the time of writing),in the throes of its worst financial crisis since independence in 1948. Fuel scarcity, inability to import goods and political tension are everywhere. The UK government's travel advice was changing frequently due to the political unrest. Before we departed to Istanbul the government had just removed its advisory against travel to Sri Lanka. We breathed a sigh of relief. Then the mass movement, and uprising against President Gotabaya Rajapaksa happened. The President’s home and political offices were occupied. His private swimming pool was no longer so very private with protesters taking a dip and cooling off from the sun. Some protesters held pillow fights on the Presidential bed whilst others snapped selfies in his offices and rooms. The uprising was peaceful and bloodless (in the most part) and the President fled the country and later resigned. This all however led the British government to reinstate its travel advisory recommending against all but strictly necessary travel to Sri Lanka.
Damn…
We were in Istanbul as Ellie had found a deal with plane tickets whereby it was actually cheaper to get to Sri Lanka by spending 7 days in Istanbul than it would have been to fly directly from London. As these tickets were not booked directly through Turkish Airlines but via a third party, these tickets were non refundable and non transferable. Just to further add to the anxiety, we heard that there was a decent chance that our flight would be partially cancelled leaving us stranded in the Maldives (there may be worse places to be stranded, but the Maldives doesn’t look budget friendly).
Damn again…
What we did now, may not be the wisest move and we’re not recommending you ignore your government's advice to travel. But we did some research, spoke to fellow travellers on the ground and checked our insurance. The general consensus was that if you could work around fuel shortages (we thought we could manage this by using public transport) and as long as you weren’t going to be actively involved in any protests (definitely not something we had planned to do) then Sri Lanka was safe and still possible to travel. Our insurance also confirmed that they would cover us (to an extent). So we decided we would go. We had backup plans to fly out of Sri Lanka if the situation deteriorated but the decision was made, we were going. All we had to do now was to board that plane.
So there we were at Istanbul’s massive international airport. Bags checked in, boarding passes printed, waiting at the gate and not to put too fine a point on it, second guessing every decision that had led us there.
The flight stopped as scheduled in the Maldives, and at least 90% of the plane left. Leaving us, a few Dutch families, a couple of travellers, Sri Lankan’s and nearly the same amount of air hosts bound for Colombo.
The flight was a lot less busy after the Maldives
We took off and before long, the turquoise waters gave way to the emerald forest of Sri Lanka.
We were finally here.
Thanks for reading.
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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