Naggar - A Historical Retreat in the Hills of Himachal Pradesh
The small hill town of Naggar sits in the picturesque Beas River Valley and is a beautiful green escape from the busy nearby towns of Manali and Kullu. With its historic castle, ancient temples, winding streets and cute cafes, Naggar is a perfect getaway.
Where Is Naggar?
Naggar is located in the mountainous northern Indian province of Himachal Pradesh (location). Located south of the popular tourist destination of Manali and north of Kullu, Naggar is easily accessible by road. Surrounded by tall mountains and river valleys, Naggar is a beautiful little town for those looking for a break from the bigger, busier destinations nearby.
Naggar is full of beautiful shrines and temples. This one can be found within the castle grounds!
How To Get To Naggar?
Naggar is located on the eastern bank of the River Beas and is easily accessible by road. Frequent local bus services go between Manali and Kullu and provide an extremely inexpensive way to get to Naggar.
Local busses are always more fun!
Local buses will run between most of these major towns. Just check before you travel as many of the buses that go between the major towns and Manali will stay on the western bank of the River Beas so you will have to change to cross.
The bus stop for Naggar is on the main road at the base of the town. From here it is a short, sharp walk up an extremely steep hill to the old town. Taxis are available for those who don’t fancy walking.
For those with a car, it's a short drive from the main NH3 highway over the bridge at Patlikuhal. From Manali it is a 45 minute straight drive south. From Kullu its 50 minutes drive north, or from the larger hubs of Bhuntar its an hour and ten minutes. Or from Mandi it’s a two and a half hour drive.
During monsoon season, check before travelling as the roads are prone to landslides and flooding.
If you are travelling from further afield most major towns and cities run bus service to Manali where it is a quick change to a local bus to get you to Naggar (see above). To book these longer journeys in advance, check out 12Go.
When To Visit Naggar?
Naggar is a year round destination. However the best time to visit is widely regarded to be just after the summer monsoon between September and November, when the rains have stopped and the snow has not yet arrived.
The valley is full of apple orchards and is a beautiful site to see in the spring blossom as well, but the weather may be more changeable.
We got very lucky with the weather in Naggar!
We visited in June and were lucky with the weather. We had beautiful blue skies, hot days and the hills were green with fresh vegetation. However, just a few weeks later the monsoon cut the entire valley off after washing away the road!
Where To Stay In Naggar?
The majority of the accommodation is set up and around the old castle, with multiple guesthouses and hotels to choose from for whatever your budget.
We loved the wooden exterior of Chateau de Soham, it felt like we were staying in the Swiss Alps!
We stayed at the beautiful, family run Chateau de Soham. This was very reasonably priced, with a lovely wood panelled room, comfy double bed and en-suite bathroom. The highlight though has to be the wooden balcony that over looks the Beas Valley and to the mountains beyond. The guesthouse also had a cafe that served food on the rooftop.
Naggar looks popular with long term stays as we frequently saw monthly rates advertised as well as a fully fledged co-working space.
There is plenty of accommodation throughout the town from hostels to hotels. Have a look at the map below to see what’s on offer:
Why Visit Naggar? What Is There To Do?
Naggar is an ancient town and was previously the capital of the whole Kullu district. The town is full of old buildings and narrow winding streets. The town rises steeply up from the more modern street alongside the main road and centres around the old castle.
Naggar Castle
The castle is the focal point of the town and the main tourist attraction. Naggar Castle was originally constructed in the 15th century and was home to the regional rulers, before being sold on, taken over by the British and finally reopened as a museum. It is full of beautifully carved woodwork, balconies with incredible views over the valley and an amazing stone temple shrine. There is also a restaurant on site (again with amazing views) and accommodation is available within the castle walls.
Entrance costs: 50 rupees each (£0.47 or $0.60). Tickets can be brought from the ticket booth just outside the entrance to the castle.
Nicholas Roerich Museum, Gardens and Art Gallery
Set in beautiful surroundings in the hills above the town, the Roerich Art Gallery and Gardens were the home of the Russian artist Nicholas Roerich. Now restored into a gallery showcasing his and his son’s (Svetoslav Roerich) artwork, museum and stunning gardens, this extensive site covers Roerich’s home, research institute as well as art galleries and even an open air theatre.
In addition to his art the Nicholas Roerich Museum, houses a collection of traditional artworks and artefacts.
A visit here is worth it just for the cottage garden and views alone.
Set high above the town the Roerich Art Gallery has incredible views over Naggar the Beas river.
Entrance costs: 200 rupees each (£1.90 or $2.41). You buy the entrance tickets from the gates outside Roerich’s house.
Naggar Temples and Shrines
Dotted around the town and the surrounding hills are many beautiful Hindu temples. Carved out of stone or wood, these temples date back to the 12th century and are tranquil, peaceful and frankly stunning places.
Entrance costs: Free
Guided Tours of Naggar Castle and Nicholas Roerich House and Gardens
If you’re staying in Manali, Naggar is an easy day trip. If you want an in-depth history of the castle and the Roerich House and Gardens, then consider booking a tour. Viator offer a one day package including private driver from Manali which you can book here.
Where To Eat And Drink In Naggar?
The main strip surrounding the old castle is where you’ll find most of Naggar’s culinary offerings. We especially recommend the following:
Naggar Delight Cafe (Location)
This little cafe on the corner to the castle offered some of the best banoffee pie we have eaten on our trip (a surprisingly competitive field). Pair this with freshly ground coffee and a seat outside with great views and you’ve got a winning combination.
just look for the charming red and white exterior opposite to the entrance to the castle. A perfect pick-me-up after an little castle wander!
Nightingales Restaurant (Location)
For those looking for a little treat, then Nightingales Italian restaurant is a perfect break from traditional Indian cuisine. Offering wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta and imported Italian ingredients, this restaurant was a fantastic treat yourself night. The views from its balcony are fantastic and as dusk fell we even saw a flying squirrel land in the trees outside!
The view from the outside dining room of Nightingale was amazing!
Soof (Location)
The Soof restaurant specialises in Mughal cuisine. This rich, decadent style of curry was delicious. With pillowy soft breads and delicious meaty curries. The restaurant is beautifully decorated on an open top floor with floor seating on colourfully embroidered cushions.
A happy Ellie waiting for her curries at the Soof restaurant!
Dhabas (located all over Naggar)
For budget eating there are plenty of dhabas located on the main road in town as well as near the castle. Offering cheap, tasty vegetable thalis, rotis and all the dhaba classics.
Tip: There are no ATMs in the old town of Naggar. The nearest ATMs are located on the strip of shops at the bottom of the hill, next to the main road.
Conclusion
Naggar is a picture perfect little hill town. It makes a lovely day trip from the busier tourist destination of Manali but if you have the time, it is well worth staying a few nights here! As soon as the day trippers leave in the afternoon you have the town to yourself (ok not quite, but you know what we mean). We can completely see the appeal of the long-stay accommodation here, it has enough different food choices to keep things interesting whilst still being close to other, larger towns. Naggar is beautiful and made a wonderful stop for us after Manali. We had never heard of Naggar before we arrived in Manali and we are so glad we rolled the dice and booked our stay!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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